The Louvre Abu Dhabi’s exhibition titled ‘Cartier, Islamic Inspiration and Modern Design,’ co-curated by Évelyne Possémé and Judith Henon-Raynaud, invites the audience to explore Louis-François Cartier’s (1819-1904) ode to islamic culture.
The luxury brand, Maison Cartier (House Of Cartier), was established in Paris, 1847, a period and place in time in which islamic art and objects was introduced through exhibitions and a growing antiquities market. The Persian style influenced both fashion and decoration, it isn’t surprising that the intricate patterns would inspire the french jeweller. This fascination sparked further with the arrival of Indian and Persian manuscripts in Paris (1910s). These sources paved the way for modernity in design and the decorative arts.
The gallery, filled with polished stones and astounding diamonds, transports you through the beginnings of cultural integration to the resulting detailed pieces of jewellery, each an homage to islamic culture and a work of art. The dimly lit atmosphere truly allows the stones to shine in all their glory and focus the viewer’s eye, isolating you in a moment in history and time. The audience becomes privy to the mind of Cartier himself through the open pages of his sketchbook, annotated with his notes and ideas. Furthering your interaction with his creative workflow - digital screens around the space broke down the design process of certain pieces, displaying how even architecture influenced his work.
Louis Cartier, Louis-François Cartier’s grandson, went on to become an avid collector of islamic art, purchasing both for the Maison and his personal collection. Though it’s difficult to say when he began acquiring islamic art, the influx of numerous masterpieces and manuscripts in the 1910’s may have been a starting point. He had a penchant for manuscripts, paintings and inlaid objects from India and Iran dating back to the 16th and 17th centuries. Previously unseen in Europe, the creative colour combinations and materials of Iran would significantly inspire a line of jewellery by Cartier. Tones of sapphire were paired with rich hues of emeralds, the blue of Iranian turquoise was combined with Afghan lapis lazuli reflecting the ceramics and tiles of Central Asia. Newly interested in finding unique colour pairings, Louis Cartier looked to Ottoman ceramics, coloured with deep emerald and orange-red coral, from Iznik.
This showcase walks you through the rise of Central Asian design. Louis Cartier’s brother and Louis-François’s second grandson, Jacques Cartier, travelled to India in 1911, the first of many trips. He searched for many ancient and modern art objects and jewellery. His trips allowed him to cultivate strong connections and open channels for gemstone acquisition.
Upon his return in April 1912, Jacques organised an exhibition of the work he had collected during his trip. 'Oriental jewels and objets d'art recently collected in India’ was displayed at the Cartier boutique in London. A successful presentation that was followed by three more in Paris, Boston, and New York, in 1913. Whilst the exhibits in Paris and London featured original Indian jewellery, those in Boston and New York introduced Indian, Persian, Arabian inspired models that were produced in the Cartier workshops.
‘India is front and centre at this exhibition. And its contribution to the house of Cartier, whilst somewhat obscured by the exhibition’s title, is made clear by the gorgeous pieces on display and the stories told around them.’ - Solitaire International, 2021.
In 1925, Cartier began adopting gemstones etched during the Mughal era to create jewellery inspired by foliage and running leaves, later being dubbed as ‘Tutti Frutti’ in the 70’s. These gemstones were intricately carved in the shapes of various leaves and fruits.
This exhibition leaves you feeling enriched in heritage, not only enchanted by diamonds but the intersection between design, fashion and culture. Each encrusted piece is as historically significant as the nobles who adorned them, this display teleports you to a time before globalisation, fostering curiosity on the historical context of jewellery by travelling back to the roots of Cartier’s inspirations. Cartier, Islamic Inspiration and Modern Design is open until the 24th of March at the Louvre Abu Dhabi.
Intriguing 👌